Singapore - March 7th

Good thing I take lots of notes when we’re on an excursion because, otherwise, I’d never remember anything  - it’s been a week since we’ve been in Singapore and I’ve had to review my notes, itinerary and port guide to re-acquaint myself with this great city.  

I think Singapore outshines even Hong Kong with its cleanliness, eclectic architecture and ultra-modern skyscrapers.  

I particularly love taking excursions because I usually learn so much about a place from the tour guide and Bill did not disappoint.  Singapore gained its independence in 1965 and currently has 5.6 million people and adding 20,000 new citizens each year.  It’s an aging population, though, and the government encourages marriages and babies (in that order) and in 2015, there were 35,000 new babies born in Singapore.  

It’s one of the busiest ports in the world with 600 ships arriving and departing each day.  Because it sits one degree north of the Equator, the weather is hot and humid.  There are no farms, or agriculture; no oil, but refineries.  The population is comprised of 77% Chinese, 14% Malay, 9% Indian and the remaining minorities.  

The island is flat so it’s easy to flatten hills and develop the land which is owned by the government.  Land use is divided 20% residential, 20% commercial/industry, 20% cemeteries, 20% infrastructure and 20% recreational. The island is separated into estates which are self-contained with their own landscaping, stores, schools, swimming pools and malls.  The symbol of the island is a “Merlion,” a creature which is half fish and half lion.

Any purchase of land from the government is subject to a 99-year lease so there is no private ownership.  If a building takes two years to construct and you purchase a condominium, for example, you are now buying a 97-year lease.  You must then live in it for five years and then can sell it on the open market, however, once again, that new buyer is now only buying a 92-year lease.  Hi-end residential properties can run 2,000 Singapore Dollars (SGD) per sq. ft.  We exchanged $1.00 US for 1.40 SGD.  

Our excursion included a city drive, Chinatown and the National Orchid Garden.   Our first stop was atop Mt. Faber, which gave us a wonderful view of Sentosa, an island across from the Singapore River with all sorts of activities such as a Casino and a Universal Studios.  The photos I posted on Facebook showed gondolas traveling up to Mt. Faber and I’m not sure, now, if they actually went over to Sentosa or to the river bank.  In any event, it was a gorgeous view.  

We were then driven to the Botanic Gardens but our sightseeing was limited to the National Orchid Garden which has over 1,000 species and 2,000 hybrids of orchids.  No doubt, some of you will receive greeting cards bearing photos of these magnificent flowers once we get them home, cropped and printed. 

 

It was extremely hot and humid and I welcomed the “Cool House” which housed some rare plants and orchids that thrive in cooler climates and we were asked to find a carnivorous plant that was somewhere within the building.  We were all huddled together in the cool confines of the “Cool House,” thankful to be out of sweltering heat, that none of us had the energy or inclination to look for an insect-eating plant.  I think Bill, our guide, took pity on our group of delirious-looking senior citizens that he gave up expecting someone to joyfully say, “here it is!” that he told us where it was. 

After I not-so-enthusiastically oohed and aahed a bit at this natural wonder, Michael and I made our way back out into the smoldering heat, snapped a few more pictures here and there and found ourselves in the air-conditioned gift shop where I, still feeling like a popsicle melting on a bench in the summer, aimlessly walked around until Michael told me to focus and select a magnet for our collection.  

After our huge purchase of 7 SGD, I ambled back to the bus, dragged myself up the steps and plopped myself down into my seat.  We passed the Istana (Presidential Palace), Parliament House, Raffles Hotel (where if we had gotten sun-stroke and lost our minds completely could’ve bought two Singapore Slings  for a mere $64.00), Orchard Street, which rivalled Fifth Avenue and Rodeo Drive for extremely high-end designer shops, and eventually came to Chinatown. 

We could’ve stayed with the group but chose to do more sight-seeing on our own as it was only about 1 in the afternoon and we didn’t need to be back onboard until 5:30 and there is so much we wanted to see.  

We have a wonderful destination lecturer onboard who does a presentation on each port a few days before our arrival and she convinced me that the subway system was easy enough to do on our own.  I wanted very much to go to the top of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel, a spot that our friend, Val, in Hong Kong, highly recommended, and to the Gardens by the Bay, I’ll talk about later.  These two spots were easily accessible by subway from Chinatown.  

I went into the Tourist Office and found out where the Blue Line on the MRT was and, immediately after leaving the office, got all mixed up.  No worries, within a few minutes I figured out the correct way and we stopped briefly in the Sri Mariamman Temple, a 19^th century Hindu temple, for a look around. 

Deciding that we (or should I say “I”) must be fed, we walked through Chinatown and came upon a crowded (always a good sign) outdoor café and decided, “fine, this will do and the subway entrance is within sight.” We were pleasantly surprised when we found Jessica (our cycling instructor) and Keith and Shirley, our very fine musical duo, “A Touch of Class,” having lunch.  They invited us to sit down and join them and Michael and I shared some spring rolls and fried rice with chicken and shrimp.  (I’m in charge of eating so I usually pick the same things in every restaurant because I don’t think you can really do much damage to rice.) 

During our lunch, Jessica was on the phone with her Mom back in New Zealand and we heard about the terrorist hostage situation in Sydney, Australia.  

Afterwards, we did a little shopping, bought a couple of “year of the monkey” trinkets that will serve as Christmas ornaments, a pair of elephant pants (I love these things – I’ve already bought about 5 pairs) and headed to the subway to go from Chinatown to the Marina Bay station.  It only cost 1.60 SGD to go three stops and we easily navigated the subway station and found the entrance to the Blue Line.  Unlike Hong Kong, Singapore’s turnstiles are for coming and going and you have to be fast.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t fast enough.  Michael got through fine but I tapped my ticket on the electronic eye at the same time a man tapped it on the other side to come out which invalidated my ticket.  Rather than try to recoup my money and get another ticket from the service desk, I decided I could afford 1.60 and just bought another ticket carefully watching, this time, to be sure no one was coming through my turnstile this time.  

Signage was great and the subway car was immaculate.  As a side note, chewing gum is against the law in Singapore and our destination lecturer told us that there are very big fines for eating and drinking and smoking – although those warnings were for the subway because we saw some people smoking, eating and drinking on the streets. 

Three stops from Chinatown (via stops at Telok Ayer and Downtown on the Blue Line) and we were at the Bayfront MRT station within a few minutes.  While in the subway station, there were huge advertisements featuring David Beckham for the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and Michael asked me whether he would look like Beckham if he stayed there.  Without waiting for my answer, he said he could stay there for the next year and wouldn’t end up looking like him.  Same goes for the advertisements for Omega watches and George Clooney.  

We easily found our way to the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and if you didn’t see our photos on Facebook and if I can’t post them here on the blog, please google this hotel.  It is extraordinary and something the likes of which I’ve never seen in my life. 

From my previous postings, you all know Michael isn’t crazy about heights but he decided to go to the 56^th floor with me anyway.  Of course, our picture was taken on the ground floor and by the time we got to the 56^th floor, the wonderful photo was already printed and placed in a leather(ette) frame and cover waiting, of course, for our impulsive purchase.  (Really, no regrets.)  

While Michael hugged the wall, I went to the edge and snapped as many pictures as I could of the Gardens by the Bay, the wonderful skyline, and, of course, the Singapore Flyer, a humungous ferris wheel that takes 45 minutes to circle just once!  (I really would’ve loved to ride it but the timing just didn’t permit it.)  Instead, we walked around the hotel a bit, and, again, every designer had a shop.  

I think we managed to walk around just one of the three lobbies because we were heading over to see the Gardens by the Bay, but not until we took photos of Michael in front of Piaget, Constantin Vacheron (he’d never seen a CV store anywhere in the world) and Patek Philippe.  The fourth store in this quadrant was a Van Cleef and Arpel shop.  We couldn’t even imagine who was shopping there or how many watches had to be sold each month just to pay the rent.  But, then again, the most expensive watch in the world, according to Michael’s research, was a platinum Patek Philippe repeater which sold for $700,000.00.  I’m sure our ol’ friend, the Sultan of Brunei, has shopped here on more than one occasion. 

Getting further instructions from a very nice young man at one of the desks in the lobby, we ventured outside (the weather was getting a trifle bit cooler but not by much) and made our way to the Gardens by the Bay.  When I saw this area at the lecture onboard, I knew I had to see it in person and it did not disappoint.  I can honestly say I’ve never seen anything like this in my life.  Again, if you’re not on FB and if I can’t upload my photos here, please google Gardens by the Bay and see what I’m talking about.  For me, it was awesome, breath-taking and just out and out amazing.  

Time was creeping up on us and we were ready to start making our way back to the ship.  Our magnet bought at the Botanic Gardens is very neat and includes the Singapore Flyer, Gardens by the Bay, the Merlion, skyline and the hotel but we wanted to purchase a Christmas ornament as well.  The gift shop didn’t have any but we bought a magnet of the trees and Michael will convert it into an ornament when we get home.

When we got to the taxi stand, two ladies ran towards us asking if they could share the cab ride because they recognized Michael from the ship.  We were only too happy to share the ride and found out that they had missed their flight from Vancouver to Los Angeles and had to fly to Honolulu back in January to join us on the ship.  Getting close the ship and watching what I thought was the meter showing about 35.8 SGD, I removed 20 SGD from my wallet expecting to share the cost.  Turns out the fare was only 5.8 SGD – I had been watching the clock.   When I told the cab driver what I had been looking at, he cracked up.  We made his day!  

We had an incredible day in this magnificent city and this would be one of those places I would definitely come back to in the future.  I love it.  

Michael’s Observations:    Singapore is an amazingly well-planned city.  Clearly, they have spent a great deal of time to lay out manufacturing and living sections as well as the transportation and freeways since they have so little land mass.  To say Singapore is a clean city is an understatement.  As Leona pointed out, the rules are very clear and the fines are very steep.  Yet, it’s a city of great range from dollar magnets to high-end watch stores.  I really enjoyed my time there and would to go back.  

Note:  Very slow connection in India; unable to upload photos at this time.

Pirates and Cruiseships and Seniors, Oh My!

Last night, we received an advisement from the Captain that the ship would be conducting a security drill.  Here’s what the notice said:  

“As you are probably aware from the news, there has been sporadic pirate activity in the western Indian Ocean, Arabian Sea, and Somali basin.  While we do not anticipate any problems, the safety and security of our passengers and crew is our most important responsibility.  Accordingly, we are providing you with these guidelines….”

A security drill took place this morning at 10:30 at which time we were all to return to our staterooms and wait for further instructions.  In the case of a real problem, we would be instructed to leave the stateroom and remain in the corridor until further notice.  We were to stay away from the exterior walls, windows and balconies, while the drill was taking place.  We watched on the webcam how the ship navigated to the starboard side as the crew practiced evasive maneuvers.  The whole thing was over in about 30 minutes.  

At dinner tonight, our waiter, Andrii, asked about our day and, of course, we mentioned the security drill.  We then discussed what would really happen if pirates attacked the ship.  

In his opinion, they wouldn’t have a chance because all the seniors on this ship are equipped with deadly canes, walkers and electric vehicles and boarding the ship would be seen as a threat to the buffet line, and they would be beaten to death, run over by power chairs and walkers and possibly cannibalized if the pirates were so bold to attempt a takeover at feeding time (which really lasts all day).  

(You should see how crazed people are when they get up for seconds and thirds and don’t cover their seat with barbed wire in order to prevent someone from taking their spot.  It could get bloody.)  

Note to Pirates:  If you’re going to attack this ship, you really should do it around 3 a.m. because everyone is asleep and the buffet is closed.    

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam - March 4th

My immediate thoughts as we were having breakfast at the back of the ship and heading towards our port at Phu My traveled back in time and captured two memories:  (1) how very poorly our military were treated when they returned home from Vietnam after spending months/years in this horrific hell hole and (2) Hanoi Jane (Fonda) and my continued hatred (yes, hatred) for this despicable creature. 

Ann, an Army nurse back then, and an acquaintance onboard, expressed her reluctance to even get off the ship at first but eventually did.  Her concerns were for the ordinary folks who lived through the war and how they’ve survived over the decades.  An excursion brought her to a home of an old “mama san” as she called her.   Ann felt okay after her visit but it was still hard for her and her husband who also served in the military.

From 1698 to 1975, the city was called Saigon.  Following the fall in 1975, Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City, but the citizens of HCM City are called “Saigonites.”

We opted, once again, for an excursion which included a visit to a lacquer factory, the Central Market/Ben Thahn Market and Dong Khoi Street, a vibrant area and one of the city’s busiest streets, with lots and lots of stores.

Our guide, Steven, was very good and he spoke in, what I believe is, the third person.  “Steven was asked the following question….” rather than “I was asked the following question….”  

Before our arrival, we had spoken to two other acquaintances, Laurie and Tre, and Tre, who was born in Vietnam, told us the American dollar is widely accepted and you can buy almost anything for “a dollar.”  He was absolutely right.  VN’s currency is the Vietnamese Dong (VND) and $1.00 US equals 20,000 VND.  $25.00 US equals 500,000 VND.  Can you imagine what it would be like to do grocery shopping with these numbers?  

HCM City is a tropical climate which means it is always hot and humid.  It has two seasons – the dry season from November to April and the rainy season from May to December.  Average temperature throughout the year is 80° with an average humidity of 75%.

VN’s #1 export is pepper, of all things, and VN is the second largest exporter of coffee in the world.  It is also a major rice exporter and 70% of its people work in rice paddies.  

The country is made up of 70% Buddhists, 15% Christians, 5% Catholics and 2% Caodaists (which I’d never heard of) and combines a belief in Buddhism, Christianity, Taoism, Confucian and Hinduism. 

Unfortunately, it is a Communist country and corruption is rampant in VN as it is in most Asian countries, according to Steven.   Total population in VN is 93 million with 10 million living in HCM City;  one of the most amazing scenes is the number of scooters that are on the streets – 5 million in HCM City alone and a total of 42 million throughout the country.  Although helmets are mandatory, we saw many people without them and there doesn’t appear to be any restrictions on the number of passengers that can be on one scooter – we saw up to 4 people on one scooter as well as lots of stuff being carried on these two-wheeled vehicles.  I saw one scooter with at least 7 huge birdcages in the back (I couldn’t tell whether they contained any birds) and others carrying lots of heavy loads.  As a tourist, you can get around the city in a “pedi-cab,” a small pedal-operated vehicle or a “cyclo,” a 3-wheeled bicycle with a large passenger seat in the front.  

Our first stop was to the Minh Phuong Lacquer Factory where we were given a brief demonstration of the lacquering process.  We had some time to shop and we bought a few boxes and trays that are gorgeous.  There are actually “knockoffs” from China in the Central Market that aren’t anywhere as nice as the ones found at the factory. 

Because so many of the workers at the factory are educated and speak English, they are highly paid - $10.00 per day or $300 per month.  Yes, I kid you not.  

We were then taken to the area of the French Colonial Post Office (built between 1886 and 1891 by renowned architect Gustave Eiffel) and Notre Dame Cathedral (completed in 1890 and boasts two 190-foot tall bell towers with an obviously French influence).  In this area, we saw couples dressed in wedding attire taking photographs.  We saw this in Hong Kong and, although I personally didn’t think the locales were all that beautiful for wedding photos, this is definitely something young people do here in Asia.  The brides and grooms are exquisitely dressed in all their finery and you can only look at their happy faces and wish them all the best and brightest futures. 

(Michael always sneaks in a photo or two while the young couples are looking in a different direction – we weren’t told whether it’s appropriate to takes photos of the brides and grooms-to-be.)  Also at the corner of this area was a Dunkin’ Donuts. 

We were shown the CIA Building where the last helicopter left Saigon in 1975.  It’s completely run down and empty at this point but still stands.  We also had an opportunity to take a photo in front of Reunification Hall, the former Presidential palace.  

Onwards, we arrived at the Central Market, also known as the Ben Thanh Market, which contained hundreds of stalls of souvenirs and local cuisine.  The Market sat on one square city block and a total of 16 entrances so you could enter from any of the four streets.  I could’ve gotten a purse that was originally tagged $65.00 for $15.00 but I really didn’t need another purse but it was fun to bargain.  I already had a magnet from VN so I wasn’t in the market for another one.  Some of the sellers were a bit aggressive, but I’m from Brooklyn, so nothing deters me.  (I still contend that the sellers in Dakar, Senegal take the prize for being the most aggressive – even the ones in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul were mere pikers compared to the ones in Dakar.)  

This Market was also known for “knockoffs” and Michael enjoyed talking with “watch sellers” about their “genuine” Rolexes and immediately recognized that there are, indeed, different qualities in the knockoffs as explained to us by our onboard Destination Expert.  I, on the other hand, had to keep walking around because I couldn’t take the overpowering smell of fish being sold nearby. 

We were on our way to our final stop, Dong Khoi Street, the best place to shop in HCM City, but before we continued, Steven suggested we have lunch and recommended a really good restaurant, Lemongrass, which was located on the 14^th floor of the Palace Hotel.  Steven’s favorite item, crispy spring rolls (119,000 VND), didn’t disappoint nor did the fried rice with shrimp, egg and pork (129,000 VND), chicken with vegetables (139,000), tea (45,000 VND) or Diet Coke (45,000 VND) all totaling 550,935 VND including a 5% service charge and 10% tax.  I haven’t checked my bank account but this lunch will cost around $25.00. 

After lunch, we proceeded to the three stores highly recommended by Steven, including “Made in Vietnam” and “Butterfly” and bought some gifts as well as a couple of tops and “elephant” pants.  

We had a 45-minute drive back to the ship, well-fed and bargained out.  Although 75% of VN is covered with mountains and hills, we saw none of that on our way from and to the cruise terminal.  No bucolic scenes along the way.  In my opinion, the city looked nicer than the “suburbs.”  

As a final thought, I just realized with all of our ports in Asia, we have now visited all seven continents.  

Michael’s Observations:   I was particularly impressed by the rhythm of the traffic in Saigon.  It seems like thousands of scooters are zipping by and the “city has a definite rhythm” (as Leona always points out on our travels).  This is a city where I could never drive and survive and, therefore, I was very happy to be on a Princess tour.  

As Leona pointed out, I enjoyed talking with the “watch sellers” and was surprised by their knowledge of genuine watches as they eyed my Mont Blanc GMT Master which was on my wrist and Leona’s Franck Muller while she stood about 10’ away.  They were anxious to sell me a copy of the Mont Blanc but I am proud to say I didn’t buy a thing in Hong Kong or Saigon.  

The one thing I am constantly reminded of in my travels is the worth of our American dollar.  People are anxious to trade their goods for American dollars in almost all of the ports we’ve visited.  Despite our country’s craziness, we’re still the best nation in the world and a lot of folks would be more than happy to be living in the United States. 

Partial Eclipse of the Sun - March 9th

This morning, while we were coming out of the Strait of Malacca and into the Indian Ocean, we were able to enjoy a partial solar eclipse of the sun.  Princess Cruises provided us with "Eclipse Shades" and information about the time for the best viewing.  These pictures were taken approximately 7:30 a.m.  (We've got a great internet connection so the photos downloaded almost immediately.)